Monday 27 August 2012

Champagne - the place and the drink

The whole area of Champagne is very beautiful - a quilt of rolling hills covered with vineyards, interspersed with pretty towns decorated with flowers, and offering a lovely church or two, and at least one very prestigious-looking champagne house that visitors can tour.

At the centre is Reims, city that boasts an 800 year-old cathedral, that was witness to the crowning of 25 kings of France. You can't go far in this city without coming across several very sophisticated champagne houses that often look more like castles, protected by tall cast-iron fences, and serving as the entrances to the many kilometers of underground passageways and caves that house thousands of bottles of champagne in storage.

One could easily make a movie in these dark, cold mazes. Definitely horror movies, but maybe adventure, mystery, or historical fiction films, also. The damp, freezing walls, the endless rows of dusty bottles, and, most of all, the tendrils of clinging clumps of dust that hang from gates and all types of ironwork hanging from the ceiling, would mean that nothing would have to be done as set decoration - it's already all there!

At the end of each quite expensive tour, you get to enjoy your flute of champagne, and if you thought ahead, and you and your partner each ordered a different type, you can share and compare them. 

We learned that champagne is made from three different grapes - pinor noir, chardonnay, and some pinot meunier. Unlike wine, once it is in its finished state in the bottle, it will not change at all in flavour or quality, so whether you drink it after one day or a few years, it will taste the same.    

Finding Apartments

We know that at some point, we'll get a bigger apartment, and we've been looking here and there on the internet, etc. It is a very frustrating process!

A couple of weeks ago, I went to see two apartments that Jerome had seen advertised. For both, I had an appointment time, but when I got there, there was a line-up of people wanting to see them. When you finally get your turn, you are interviewed by the person who is renting it, and they tell you which day they will have made their decision about who gets to rent it. (For example, noon the next day.) Then, you are expected to move in by the date they give you, usually sometime in the following two weeks!

I don't know how people are expected to suddenly move when there isn't even enough time to give notice at their current apartment. I think it's extra hard right now because students are trying to find places to live before school starts. I don't know students can afford the prices, though.

So far, it looks like we'll be staying where we are for a while. It's a good thing we like it!

Driving in Paris - underlines not added by me - don't click on them - take you to ads

First of all, I want to apologize for it being so long since I wrote the last post! Jerome has had more time off since it's been August, and we've been traveling a lot on week-ends, so I have also kind of been on vacation from the blog!

In these last few weeks, I have been gradually getting used to driving in Paris - something I thought I would never even attempt, let alone be able to do it!

I started out being absolutely terrified, but Jerome kept encouraging me to do it and kept offering me his car saying he trusts me!  A couple of times he just pulled over, saying I should drive! The other day, he left me his car for the day, and I tried driving around the streets near us, and the rest of the time parallel parking (super difficult in these narrow streets, trying to fit into tiny spaces - with a stick shift).

Last Saturday, I drove on the Peripherique (the ring road that goes through Paris) and got us home from La Villette, where we went to escape the heat (wasn't really possible) on the canals and at the movies. I still made lots of mistakes, mostly from not understanding what the GPS was trying to tell me to do. 

A week ago, Jerome left me the car again, and I actually drove by myself out to my school, through tunnels, and even around the big circle that's just like the one down the road at the Arc de Triomphe. Then I drove to pick him up from work! At that point, I had finally lost my absolute terror, and was just mildly scared! Huge improvement!


 Last summer, I drove for two weeks in the south of France and got used to it (pretty much, anyway!), but even all
 the windy, narrow roads and superfast autoroutes don't compare to driving in Paris! It's like there's no rules whatsoever, and several choices of roads for every turn (and I always make the wrong choice!), and it's never clear which tiny narrow roads are one-way, or which way, and on bigger roads, lanes are non-existent (just go wherever you want), and the idea of using indicator lights doesn't seem to have occurred to anyone!

Then, on Wednesday, I had the car to myself for two hours in Colombe (to the west of us) and I just kept driving around. I even found how to get to a parking lot at La Defense, but I knew the stores were closed. Yesterday, I drove us for the last 45 minutes on the highway and all the way to our building in Paris, and I wasn't scared (well, just a little), and I didn't make any mistakes! 

I really think I can drive in Paris, now, but I don't think I'll ever actually enjoy doing it!








Monday 6 August 2012

Marseille

I will add more to this later, but I'm going to put the poem I came up with this morning about Marseille. It's kind of like a grade five did it, so sorry, but I just felt inspired this morning when I was trying to describe Marseille where we spent this week-end!



Heat, sun,
blue sea,
 
proud, irrepressible, ancient city, 
dusty, peach-coloured buildings sprawling to the mountains
in a crowded maze of winding, narrow streets
and wide, arrow-straight boulevards
leading to beaches that are alive into the middle of the night,
proud churches, flamboyant fountains, grandiose sculptures
and a cathedral standing guard on an impossible perch
witness to it all

Thursday 2 August 2012

Six swans a-swimming....

Literally. On the lake in the Bois de Boulogne. Six huge, beautiful swans. When I first came across them, they were all resting in a row along the side of the lake, preening and enjoying the sun. I walked along the path beside them, only two feet away at the most, and they didn't care at all. Then a dog ran up to them, barking, but they slowly turned to look at him, and he backed away! 


Later, as I retraced my steps, they were swimming together, and then I turned my head from them slightly, and I found myself staring at the top two-thirds of the Eiffel Tower, perfectly framed by the trees on the other side of the lake. I couldn't believe how perfect it was, and all just a walk away for me.

My Neighbourhood

This week, I have realized that I quite like this area. I feel quite at home, here. Whenever I go to some other part of Paris, I always feel relieved to get back here.


The other day, I decided to go for a walk between l'Opera and the Louvre. That was nice, and after stopping in one of my favourite Starbucks, halfway, I decided to continue further in that tourist zone just north of the Seine (right bank). I found the number of people crowding the sidewalks annoying, and I couldn't wait to find the closest metro and get back to Porte Maillot. 


When you get off the metro at Porte Maillot, you can go outside, but you can also walk through the shopping centre that links the metro and the RER trains to the Palais des Congres hotel. The shopping centre is really high end, and therefore, usually really quiet. The floors of the hallways are even carpeted! Then, I walk through the lobby of the very sophisticated hotel, and from it's entrance, it's only a short walk to the apartment. Or, I can walk along the cross-street, Avenue des Ternes, which has lovely big sidewalks, and step into the nice stores along it without crowds of people around. At almost every intersection, I can see the Arc de Triomphe at the end of the street (all the streets lead to it!) If I decide to walk up to it, I can then easily walk along any numbers of connecting streets and soon be near the Seine, looking at the Eiffel Tower.


If I feel like finding some space, I can walk from my apartment to the nearby Bois de Boulogne, where there is a forest, and also a lake. It feels like you are far outside of Paris!


Another great place to wander, especially if one wants space, is La Defense. It is just three metro stops from Porte Maillot(sometimes, it only takes about six minutes to get there) and there, you can walk around a beautiful, very modern space with very artistic skyscrapers, and at the end, the Grande Arche - the contemporary version of the Arc de Triomphe, which you can see in its mirror location in the distance. There is so much space here, but at any time, you can enter either of the huge, modern shopping centres and find pretty much anything you want!


Yesterday, I found a health-food store that reminded me a lot of Amaranth in Calgary, and it is about a minute's walk from my building. I can buy so many gluten-free things, there!



Wednesday 1 August 2012

Juno Beach/D-Day beaches

As we got closer to the Juno Beach Centre we started to see signs with Canadian Flags more frequently, and I started to feel like I was getting closer to a tiny piece of Canada. Once we got inside, it was so nice to see Canadian flags and maple leaves everywhere in the gift shop! The people working there are university students who get to spend several months working at the centre, then they go back home. The person I spoke with the most (in French!) was from Winnipeg, and he apparently had gone to French immersion when he was in school, but he had lost a lot of it since then, and he wanted to get it back! We joked about how we could consider us neighbours (in Canada) since we were both so far away!

The beach itself is huge, and with the grey clouds around us at the time, it seemed like like it was one huge memorial to the Canadians who landed there on June 6, 1944. Over a thousand either died or were injured there, and together, they made it the furthest into occupied France of all of the armies that landed on the beaches that day. It really it an emotional experience being there.

Afterwards, we drove about another hour along the coast and found Omaha Beach, one of the beaches where the American army landed. There are only a few buildings near it - a couple of restaurants, mostly, but it has been left pretty much as it was. There is a very interesting and beautiful sculpture on the beach to commemorate the soldiers there. The museum dedicated to the Americans is further along on Utah beach.

It is amazing to me how something this complicated, involving so many people, so much equipment, and so many types of landing craft could be organized and be successful in their goal of liberating Europe, when it all happened at a time without our modern technology for communication or computers. Only when you are there do you realize how big this was, in every way. Just the distance alone - many miles along the Normandy coast - makes is seem unbelievable that it could have even been attempted. At the same time, the French Resistance committed over a thousand acts of sabotage to roads and communication systems so that the nazi forces were impeded in any attempt to stop the allied forces. Even before the actual landing, all kinds of purposefully faulty information had been "leaked" to the nazis so that they thought the attack would take place furher north, and their forces would be concentrated as a result.

I was so proud to wear my t-shirt saying CANADA as I visited these places where so many people gave their lives in terrifying conditions to give the world the freedoms we now enjoy.

If you ever have the chance, visit Juno Beach Centre and the other "plages du debarquement du Jour-J".

Tuesday 31 July 2012

Deauville, Normandy

Driving outside of Paris was wonderful - it is so green and there are so many trees. It seemed to take no time at all to get to the coast of Normandy - just an hour and a half!

Deauville was a very pleasant surprise. A huge beach, lovely soft sand, and a modern boardwalk that went on and on, taking us to nice beachside restaurants, shops, etc. They have an American film festival there every September, so I think they have tried to make it look like a first class destination. The boardwalk has the names of famous Hollywood actors along the length of it.

The town behind it, is also extremely attractive. All the buildings have that Shakespearean style of architecture. We found a lovely old abbey as we explored. It was so peaceful, sitting by it in the sun.

Our hotel was just outside a little town called Pont-L'Eveque, which was soooo pretty, and it is situated right beside a huge lake. Ducks were playing in the grass right beside us as we had a coffee in the cafe.

We went back to Deauville to their hippodrome to see the races! Every half an hour, another race would take place. It was just like being at the Kentucky Derby, or something. The horses would be paraded around at the back, while everyone watched or placed their bets, then the spectators would rush out to the front to watch the actual race. It was so big, and the horses so far away for most of the race, that we had to watch the big screen to see what was happening. When it was over, everyone would head in to the back again, to pickup their winnings, watch the presentation to the winner (involving speeches, etc.), and to bet on the next race. Neither of us had ever bet on horse-racing before, but Jerome actually picked the winner twice! The weather was perfect. I learned some new vocabulary such as "pouliches" (the horses), and "montes" (the jockeys).

Friday 27 July 2012

Food/Eating

There are two grocery stores across and just along the road from our building. Further down the street in the other direction is a gourmet grocery store inside the fancy shopping centre under the hotel called Le Palais des Congres. I think I saw an organic grocery store just down one of the sidestreets.

As you can see, there is no shortage of food around here! I love being able to run out, buy something for dinner, and get back, all within ten minutes! I can find all kinds of gluten-free things at the gourmet store, and even some surprising things (like gluten-free madeleines) at the local stores. I have even found ready-to-eat crepes, both regular and gluten-free. I went crazy recently, buying nutella and whipping creme, and having crepes for breakfast, snacks, etc! Also, with the creme brule ice cream I found! Oh, yes, and so far I've managed to stop myself from buying the chocolate mousse that comes in little plastic cups, but I'm sure I'll give in at some point! If I could eat gluten, I'd be in real trouble as there are amazing bakeries also, just a few setps from us.

I have been enjoying cooking in the tiny kitchen with no oven. One of my favourite new things to eat that Jerome makes is this: Fry a pack of bacon (already cut up into small pieces), add a container of thick creme fraiche (basically, whipping cream), stir it all up together in the frying pan, then pour it over pasta! I wonder how much fat that is? It's so delicious, though!

Some things are difficult to find, though. It took me a long time to find paper towels, and I had to go the gourmet store to find butter chicken sauce.

Of course, the best thing is being able to buy a bottle of wine every time one goes to the grocery store, and being able to just run over to grab one, if we have run out. Most of the wine I have been buying has averaged about 3 euros per bottle - that's for bordeaux, and pretty much everything you can think of. With the exchange rate, now, that's about $4 a bottle!

And guess what we had for lunch today - Subway! There's one also just down the road, and I felt like I was in Canada again - it was just like at home!

Thursday 26 July 2012

Here I am! 1st blog in Paris....

Bienvenue a tous!
Finally, I am writing my first post here, in Paris, nearly three weeks since I arrived! (It took me that long to figure out how to get back on here, to tell the truth!)
Many of you have been following how things have been going on facebook, so for those of you who either aren't on facebook, or who don't usually go on it, I'm going to paste some of my posts here so you can see what has happened as I first talked about it.

July 5
I have to stay up until 2:30 today because I have to phone a school in France for an interview! Trying to stay awake!
My house is empty and perfectly clean! Finally! Just have to finalize my packing. I think I have finished everything else! (but I have to remember to pack up my computer, get the com. centre pass for Tracey, take my shoes back, what else?) One more day to do it all. Thursday night, my children and I are going to have dinner out. I am relieved that this marathon is coming is coming to an end, excited to be going, but terrified about leaving everyone. Thank-you everyone, all my amazing friends, for your support and good wishes. I will miss you all, but you will be in my heart, and in my thoughts. Until we meet again! A la prochaine!


July 5
I HAVE A JOB AT AN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL IN PARIS! I'm so excited! Just got off the phone with the headmistress. She's going to show me around the school on Tuesday, and she's going to meet me at the train station to drive me to the school. WOW!

July 9
Finally, here I am! After months of organizing, cleaning, packing, paperwork, more organizing, list upon list, literally hundreds of things to get done, I am in my little apartment in Paris! It was so hard to leave my children and my friends, but I got through it with their help. After he picked me up at the airport, Jerome drove me around Paris - first time I've seen it all from a car. Even drove around the crazy traffic circle around the Arc de Triomphe!Yesterday, we wandered around the Latin Quarter where we met, and drank coffee at a sidewalk cafe (actually, the sidewalk in front of a Starbucks!)
I really have to put all of this in the blog. I will try to get it going today.
Today, I have to open a bank account, practice taking the train to where my new school is so I don't get lost tomorrow going to meet the "directrice", and go shopping for some household things. Have already gone grocery shopping with Jerome, and taken turns cooking in the tiny kitchen, with the help of some wine.
Still trying to grasp the fact that I get to stay here, and I'm not just visiting!


July 10
Fellow teachers: I think I've retired and gone to teacher heaven! I saw my school, today - L'Ermitage International School of France - and it's in these big, beautiful old French mansions, scattered around a park! I teach 4 days because there is no school on Wed. afternoons nor on Friday mornings (Fridays, there's only an hour and a half of school). I teach English to two classes - one is 12 students, and the other is 15! I get an hour prep time on the three full days I have! This is unbelievable!!!! Sorry - not trying to make anyone jealous, just expressing my disbelief!

July 12
I finally just relaxed yesterday. I wandered around St. Germain, read my kindle with a coffee, and a crepe (buckwheat). On my way back, I realized that the way I can tell I'm not a tourist anymore, is that I haven't taken a single photo since I got here! If I were visiting, I would have taken at least two hundred by now!

July 13
I opened a French bank account and apparently that means that I am now an official resident of France! (They only let you have one after you prove a million things about who you are, where you are living, and proof of a job!)
Yesterday, I spent the day with my new teaching partner, Jodie, at her house! I got to meet her whole family, and they invited me to stay for lunch! They are from Australia (have been here for 12 years) and they made me feel so welcome. (Her husband is hilarious!) We actually got a lot of things planned.
Got the school year calendar: Be prepared....1 week around the end of October, 2 wks. at Christmas, 2wks. for Winter vacation at the beginning of March, and 2 wks for Spring vacation at the beginning of May!


July 15
That was an amazing fireworks show! It went for 35 minutes straight without stopping, and the Eiffel Tower lighting up every few minutes.

July 19
Got my first mail at this address, yesterday - I guess I am official, now!
Spent Sunday evening moving to the apartment just next door. Monday, I spent the whole day tying to find a place for everything, and finally succeeded. It's really cute! It is still tiny - bed in the only room, with the illusion of a separate kitchen, and a bathroom you can actually turn around in! Patio doors open fully to our balcony, and we look across to the trees that are growing higher than us (on the sixth floor) from the courtyard below. Went shopping at La Defense for new towels and bedding, and other stuff for organizing, and yesterday the new TV Jerome bought was delivered (takes up half one of these tiny walls!) It's all good!


July 21
Yesterday: I spent a wonderful afternoon with Christi (a friend and fellow teacher in Calgary for those who don't know) and her family - lunch at a creperie, and a boat tour of Paris. I will miss them!
Tomorrow: We're going to walk to the Arch de Triomphe to see the finish of the Tour de France! Isn't that unbelievable? Never thought I'd get to do that!


July 23
How was being at the Tour de France? Exciting, but also a lot standing in one place in the sun, waiting, then finally, the cyclists whizzing past so quickly. Luckily, where we were, they had to do laps so we got to see them more than once!

That's everything so far! I'm going to end this post right now, and I'll write a new one later to catch up. I'm going to see how I can invite everyone to read it!

Wednesday 30 May 2012

Five and a half weeks!

In five and a half weeks, I will arrive in Paris! Why is this any different from what thousands of other people are doing?  Because this time, I won't be just visiting. At long last, I am realizing my dream and I'm going to live there!
This has been a project that I have been working on for over a year, and finally, my dream is coming true!
In this blog, I'm going to continue what I began when I was in France for a month last summer - journal about my discoveries, reflections, and experiences as a Canadian woman in one of the most fascinating places in the world - France! Join me in this experience - I can't wait to share it with you!